Artist: Adrian Van Klaveren
Museum: Kunstgewerbemuseum (Berlin, Germany)
Technique: Brass
Gilbert Adrian Greenburgh (1903-1959) was chief designer for Metro Goldwyn Mayer from 1929 to 1941. While there he designed, among other things, costumes for Greta Garbo for many years. The broad-shouldered silhouette he developed in 1932 for Joan Crawford in the film “Letty Lynton”, which would influence fashion up until the end of World War II, was particularly significant. In 1941, he founded his own Couture house, “Adrian Ltd,” with ready-to-wear line in Beverly Hills. Although he now concentrated on models for working women, he knew how to lend an elegant glamour to strict cuts, as displayed by this piece. The tailored, hip-length jacket is high-necked and has a small, rounded turndown collar and long narrow sleeves. Slanted slash side pockets appear at hip level on both sides. The jacket closes with threeself-covered buttons and an internal hook and eye. A band of natural coloured wool, a simple yet striking military-like accent runs diagonally from the left shoulder to the right side, ending at waistlevel in the back. The band is adorned with three groups of five brass buttons. The jacket is fully lined with crepe marocain. The straight, three-quarter length skirt has a short kick pleat in the back and hook and eye closure in the waistband with a zipper on the left.
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